The density of restaurant talent crowding the tables made Bar Boulud feel like a Beard awards after-party Wednesday. “It was culinary helium,” one bemused restaurant pro said. Daniel Boulud, whirling from table to booth, was kissing cheeks and telling fans: “This is a bistro. We have to turn the tables every hour.” And he kept dispatching waves of gorgeous charcuterie to the food world troops. Barry Wine shared snails at the bar. Waiters swarmed Charlie Palmer’s table as if he were Angelina Jolie.  Daniel’s right hand Georgette Farkas counted teams from 11 restaurant groups: Babbo, Per Se, Bouchon, Chodorow’s China Grill squad, a Wolfgang Puck contingent, Le Cirque’s wine director, GM John Fanning from Accademia di Vino, San Domenico chef Odette Fada with chef Philippe Bertineau of Payard. (They’re married. He just won the prestigious Mâitre Ouvrier of France.) I can’t imagine why Jay McInerny looked so annoyed. 

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